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1. Any 1980 and newer car will be permitted. Minivans allowed if FWD only. Call if you have questions. No convertibles.

 

2. When using chain, it is a max of 3/8 diameter and when using wire its 4 strands of #9 from TSC, ACE or similar. No washers may be used to reinforce a hole you run wire or chain through.

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3. The following must be removed prior to entering the fairgrounds; windows, plastic bumper covers, headlights, taillights, all chrome and mirrors. Interior must be swept clean of debris and glass.

 

4. Under the hood you may take plastic fender wells out and strip plastic and unneeded parts off. Battery MAY be left in stock location. You may move the battery to the floor of the car and lengthen cables to reach it and must be mounted in a secure fashion.

 

5. You must run the engine and transmission that came in the car. You must use the factory rear end housing, gear and axles for the car you are running. Replacement axles must only have cast flanges. Spider gears may be welded. No other welding on the diff. When opening the hood, it must look and sound like all the factory parts the car came with including the stock exhaust manifolds, no headers. Ignition switch may be bypassed if necessary.

 

6. Engine must be mounted with the stock mounts in the stock position. No welding of engine mounts. Factory transmission cross members only and they must be bolted in not welded. If the car has a wiring harness in front of core support you may move it behind core support. No stand alone, simplified or lengthened harnesses. Firewall maybe be cut out or pounded back behind distributor.

 

7. Must use the oem column shifter or the oem floor shifter, whichever it came equipped with or you may use 1 solid straight piece of 3/8 rod direct to the linkage. Must use the oem gas pedal and brake pedal.

 

8. You must relocate the fuel tank to rear floor of car, if this is done you must use a fuel cell or boat tank in a well fabricated frame. No stock fuel tanks permitted inside of car. If you move the fuel cell to inside of car it must be securely fastened to floor with bolts. Ratchet straps are not approved to mount fuel cells. Injected cars may use an internal or external high psi pump. 85 F150 style is ok.

 

9. ALL body bolts, mounts and washers must be factory stock, no altering permitted, don’t even put a socket on them. If they are broken or rusted off you may add 2 loops of wire in the immediate area to secure the body just as the bolt did.

 

10. Doors must be chained or wired. No more than 8 places per door and the wire at the bottom of doors may go around frame. You may use chain or 4 strands wire per hole. Driver’s door may be reinforced on the outside or inside don’t overlap the door seam by more than 3 inches. No full door skins.

 

11. Trunks and hoods must be chained or wired. No more than 8 total places per each. You may use chain or 4 loops of wire per place. 2 of these may go around each bumper and/or frame. TRUNK MUST BE OPEN FOR INSPECTION OR HAVE AN 8” ROUND HOLE CUT IN IT. HOOD MUST have a 12 inch inspection hole cut above engine. Tech may ask you to open hood if they can’t inspect properly. Deck lid and or tailgate must be in factory shape and position on car or be completely removed from car. You cannot remove speaker deck from your car or push it down. No tucking, wedging, pre-bending, smashing, folding or anything else you can think of to the body. No welding washers to body for wire or chain. You may cut the rear of the trunk lid off if you choose to. Do not tuck, wedge, pre-bend, notch, fold, or anything else you can think of to modify the trunk, hood, quarter panels or fenders. You do not have to run a trunk lid or hood but you must have something covering the mechanical fan if you run one. The rear frame behind the humps may be dimpled or notched and at no me can this be re-welded.

 

12. Air filled tires only. Must start with stock wheel and an 8” or smaller wheel center may be added along with a valve stem protector. No other welding.

 

13. NO CREASING OF THE BODY OR FRAME IS PERMITTED AND DO NOT FOLD THE TRUNK LID. IF YOU CREASE THE BODY OR HAMMER THE BODY OR FRAME BE PREPARED TO PUT IT BACK THE WAY IT CAME.

 

14. You may have a 4 bar cage, 62” door bar max length including dash and seat bar. Door bar c-channel may be on the outside of the car. You may have a roll over bar that runs perpendicular to the door bars. It may bolt or be wired to the roof in 2 places.

 

15. You may have 2 pieces of chain or wire in the front window for your protection.

 

16. Steering and suspension parts for your car must be the ones that came on the car or must be replaced with identical box store replacement parts. No purpose built parts. Must be as it came. Twist in coil spring boosters may be used to achieve bumper height.

 

17. Bumper swaps are permitted by using any un-seam welded car bumper excluding pointys (New Yorkers and Imperials) or a straight piece of open ended ¼ thick tube measuring 4x4, 4x5, 5x5, 3x7, 4x6, 4x7 with a max length no wider than the center of the res. Cars that came factory with bumper shocks must run the bumper shock. The shock may be drilled, slid inside itself and welded or you may remove the rear mounting bolt and slide it all the way in. Plug weld in original mounting bolt hole is ok. Shock end plate may weld to the end plane of the frame. If your car didn’t come from the factory with bumper shocks you may weld it directly to the frame. No squaring or shortening, use filler in the gaps if necessary. In either case you may weld 2 pieces of 2x6 steel strap on each side from the frame to the bumper to ensure it stays on. No homemade, loaded or seam welded bumpers. Max bumper height will be 24” to the Top of the bumper.

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